Wilson if I am not mistaken is the oldest golf company of the existing golf companies so without seeing the irons I cannot comment. Wilson used to have a commercial bragging that the company had won more majors than any other manufacturer and while that comment might have been true compared to the companies around I would argue Tom Stewart won more. Their lop sided commercial only counted Harrington's three majors in this era, but they had quite a few players dating back to Gene Sarazen.

I found this:

http://www.golfreview.com/cat/..

Hope it helps.

That's pretty interesting. The reviews go back to 1999! I see all kinds of Wilson models mentioned, FG17's, FG59's, and a few Tour Blades. No specific mention of a type 11 model however. All the reviews seem very positive though. Thanks for the info.

1 18 56
2 20 57
3 23 58
4 26 59
5 30 60
6 34 60
7 38 61
8 42 62
9 46 62
P 50 63
S 55 64

Not sure of the Tour11 spec these are the older 1989 spec.
If the older PW is 52 degree, then the gap progression would be 4 degrees all the way to #1.

The set is 4 thru PW, it sure looks like this is an older model, but how long could these have been laying around in the warehouse? I've found a few references to this set being priced online for $599 marked down to $399, now they are listed as $399 marked down to $199. I have been looking for a way to try out a nice set of blades without spending a grand to do it. This looks like my best shot.

My father in law bought a set of Staff Tour Blades last year to replace a set he bought in 1984. The looked nearly identical. He was told the Staff Tours are nearly the same as the original, modern version. They make them every few years. The FGs are the line that changes year to year. The FG62 is the most recent. Still a blade but they make them a little easier to hit with enlarged heads and lower COG.

The Staff Tours are player irons. They will feel like butter when hit well or a tuning fork when not.

They are an Edwin Watts exclusive club like the Taylormade 3.0 was an exclusive for Dicks Sporting Goods.

Lee.I'm not sure if you would like the BLADES Irons,they are not a very forgiving irons.You can work the ball but you miss that sweet spot and your all over the place.Your best bet is go to Golfsmith or a Golf Shop and get fitted for the best irons that fit your game.

A forged set for $199 is very economical.
If you put the components ( heads, shafts, + ferrules, epoxy and grips ) it'll be no less than $200.
Even if this is a "made for" model, it'll be a good new set.
If you are going to spend $200, you could also pick up some other quality used forged blades from Ben Hogan ( pre 1996 ), Mizuno, All are very playable and has collection value if you take care of it.

Yeah, as others have said, this is a "made for" model exclusive to Edwin Watts. (Also, they never used to sell sets starting at 4 iron...if it was an older set it would likely include the 2 and 3 iron unless they were lost somewhere.) Wilson makes some quality clubs and that is obviously a great price point.

Only thing I'm concerned about is that shaft. The True Temper TX 105 is about 20 grams lighter than a Dynamic Gold. That may aid in faster swing speed and higher ball flight, but a lighter shaft means the club could feel very head-heavy, which may lead to some inconsistent contact. A heavier shaft would balance the club out better. But at that price, even after getting new shafts you'd be spending way less than pretty much any other new set of blades!

If you're interested in an older set, though, I would recommend looking for a set of Mizuno MP-14s. Hands down, the best blade design of the 1990s and arguably still better than anything being made currently.

Here's a full set on ebay for $200. That's a ridiculously good deal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mizuno..

Ahhh, this is starting to make a little sense. I've had pretty good luck with house brand clubs before. I have a pair of Golfsmith Lynx hybrids I like a lot and a Golf Galaxy Maltby wedge that I like.

"The best irons that fit my game..." That's a very diplomatic way of saying, "A 20 handicapper that sucks as bad as you has no business touching a set of players irons."

I have been having this debate with myself for a few years now. I have a set of "game improvement" irons. I'm just not convinced that they actually improve my game. They may give me a better result on a poorly struck shot, but all that does is paper over my basic swing flaws. In the short run, it might improve my scores slightly, but I don't see that it actually improves my >>Game<<.

I'm also not going to toss my well worn set of Orlimar Tri-Metal cavity backs in the dumpster. If I can't get the hang of the more demanding clubs right off, I can always go back. I was looking around trying to find a single club or two in a used players iron to try it out. I didn't find anything on the used rack that fit the bill and even full sets of very used blades were $300 and up.

Right now this looks like a pretty good option for a reasonable price. I am planning on my annual Spring lesson package and I want to see if I can improve my ability to hit shots. I don't know if it will work out, but there is only one way to find out.

Bingo, Otter. "Game-improvement" irons is a misnomer. They are "game-helping" irons. They take your bad swings and turn (some of) them into passable shots. But that ain't going to teach you how to get better. We improve the fastest--really out of necessity--when the results of a poor swing are bad vibrations and unacceptable shots.

I got my blades when I was an 18 handicap 6 years ago. Now, with those very same clubs in my bag, I am a 1.9. Those clubs definitely had something to do with it. If you make a poor swing with a blade, you feel it in your bones. It's not enjoyable. But you learn real quick how to put the club on the ball correctly so as to avoid having that feeling again! The payoff is great though: few things on Earth feel better than a pured shot with a blade iron.

If you want real game improvement irons start playing hickory shafted irons from the 1920's. They make blades from the 1950's look massive and the wooden shafts help you with tempo.

Now in saying that the set I play most often is a combo set...Titleist AP2 4-6 irons and Titleist 910MB 7-PW irons. I will take forgiveness with my long irons and precision with my shorter ones. The idea was a simple one for me...at what iron do i really start firing at flagsticks. For me its a 7 iron. With a 6 iron I hit the ball about 185 yards and to be honest I am just trying to get on the green and somewhere close. With a 7 iron I feel more confident going flag hunting, especially if I am approaching with a 3/4 swing.

To me the "game improvement" irons are designed to keep you lazy. You get the idea in your head that you can hit the ball anywhere on the face and you are fine...that is a sure trip to average town.

Heck even with modern blades I get lazy compared to playing hickory irons. With my hickory sticks I was dialed in...with modern day blades you can still get away with a miss...with hickories you miss the sweet spot and you've just lost 20-30 yards!!!

Just got back from splitting a bucket with my golf buddy. First time hitting in about two months, so I didn't want to overdo it. Found the new clubs are very easy to draw the ball with, also easy to over draw into a hook. The best hits I had felt very soft off the face and got up it the air in a hurry. Nice distance off a well struck 4 iron, was clearing a 180 yard island with a few good shots and that's with range balls. Lost lots of distance on poor contact hits. Hitting thin hurts, still waiting to get feeling back in my pinky finger.

All in all, about what I expected. Not a bad first outing, come on Spring!!